Panerai

Answer:

A big draw of the Panerai brand, for me, is the history behind it (not that I would have supported the Axis powers, however). The historic Panerais were all manual wind watches.

As with peepshow, my favorite aspects of the brand are their clean, crisp dials and workhorse manual-wind movements (which, in the case of the 111/2s, also happen to be beautifully decorated). Not only does the modified Unitas 6497 fit with the history of Panerai, but unlike the modified Valjoux 7750 that powers most Panerai automatics, it actually fits the case without the need for spacers. Originally, these movements were based on pocket watch movements, hence the need for a larger case to house them. Of course, given their designated mission in life as naval commando dive watches, large diameter cases and dials were exactly what the doctor ordered. With the advent of the automatic Panerais, the 44mm and 47mm cases became entirely superfluous, and thus just for show (except for the Arktis models, which have additional magnetic shielding that surrounds the movement).

As such, with the notable exception of the 233 (their first in-house movement and still a manual-wind), and the 243 (automatic, but looks badass and has full tritium lume)